Overland Adventures in an Earthroamer 4WD
Here is the full diary of Dick and Pip Smith’s drive around the world in an Earthroamer 4WD vehicle. Click on each entry to view the full diary with photos.
For a summary of the fuel and shipping costs during the various stages of the trip, click here.
1. Introduction – The Smith’s Overland Adventure – 17 March 2006
Dick and Pip Smith, Australian adventurers, have flown around the world by both helicopter and fixed wing aircraft. Dick and Pip have visited the North Pole together, and Dick has visited the South Pole. He is the first person to fly a helicopter solo around the world, and Pip is the first woman to fly around the world in a helicopter. The Smiths have now decided to drive around the world. Click here for more.
2. The Vehicle – 17 March 2006
After research all around the world we have decided to use an Earth Roamer. Our Earth Roamer is second-hand and has done about 10,000 miles (16,093Kms). Click here for more.
3. Photos of Dick picking up the Earthroamer – 18 March 2006
4. Route maps of the drive around the world – 20 March 2006
Where are we going? To have a look at the proposed route, click here.
5. The Delivery Trip – From Denver to Washington State – 30 March 2006
Here is both a precis, and a detailed daily diary of the 6 day delivery trip – picking up the Earthroamer in Broomfield (a suburb of Denver) and driving to the Ferry Terminal at Tacoma in Washington State. Click here.
STAGE 1 – USA AND CANADA – ANCHORAGE, ALASKA TO DENVER, COLORADO
6. Day 1 – The first day of our great adventure – Monday 8 May 2006
It is the first day of our great adventure and we started today from Anchorage, Alaska. Will we get around the World? Click here for the diary and photos of today’s drive.
7. Day 2 – We crossed the border from Alaska into Canada – 9 May 2006
Dick and Pip joined the Alaskan Highway and crossed the border into Canada, stopping off at airports and places of interest along the way. Click here for the detailed diary of the drive with photos.
8. Day 3 – Haines Junction to Whitehorse and almost to Watson Lake – 10 May 2006
A magnificent morning beside Lake Kluane and we moved our watches forward an hour. Dick was up at 8am and went walking to the airstrip and along the Lake shore. We picked up hitch hikers, drove through Whitehorse and nearly to Watson Lake. Click here for the detailed diary and photos.
9. Day 4 – Sign Post Forest to green forests of Fort Nelson – 11 May 2006
We drove to the famous ‘Sign Post Forest’ at Watson lake, started by Carl K. Lindley, a soldier who was working on the construction of the Alaskan Highway in 1942. Signs are still being added with over 50,000 at the last count. On the way to Fort Nelson we saw bears, bison, caribou and deer, and we swam in hot springs. Click here for the detailed diary and photos.
10. Day 5 – To the end of the Alaskan Highway at Dawson Creek – 12 May 2006
We drove in the rain to Dawson Creek and the “zero mile marker”. Click here for today’s detailed diary and photos.
11. Day 6 – Rich farming land from Grande Prairie to Edmonton – 13 May 2006
Today we drove to Edmonton, with Dick talking to Macca on Australia All Over, and we visited the huge West Edmonton Mall. Click here for the detailed diary and photos.
12. Day 7 – Edmonton to Calgary, Canada – 14 May 2006
Today we drove past farms, visited Ken Borak Air and parked in the paddock of a local. Click here for the detailed diary and photos.
13. Day 8 – From the windy plains of Canada to the Glacial Mountains of the United States – 15 May 2006
We crossed the border from Canada into the USA, on the way seeing magnificent scenery, bears, wind farms, and of course, trains! For the detailed diary and photos, click here.
14. Day 9 – From the railway yard in Shelby, Montana, to the Missouri River and the Great Falls Airport – 16 May 2006
We drove through farmland as the weather warmed up and left the Earthroamer at Great Falls Airport while we flew to Wichita to buy a new aircraft! Click here for the diary and photos.
15. Day 10 – From Great Falls to Yellowstone National Park – 18 May 2006
After returning from Wichita we continued the drive, giving a lift to a swaggy along the way and heading to Yellowstone National Park. Click here for the diary and photos.
16. Day 11 – From the mozzies of Hebgen Lake to the sulphur smells of Mammoth Hot Springs – 19 May 2006
We entered Yellowstone National Park, saw elk, bison and geysers on the way to Mammoth Hot Springs. Click here for the diary and photographs.
17. Day 12 – Exploring more of Yellowstone National Park – 20 May 2006
Exploring Yellowstone National Park we saw the magnificent river, Old Faithful and other geysers, we walked the boardwalks and stood on a frozen lake. For the diary and photos, click here.
18. Day 13 – Our first day in the Grand Teton National Park – 21 May 2006
We entered the Grand Teton National Park, did lots of walking, got bogged in the car park and used the winch, visited Jackson Airport and had dinner in Jackson Hole. Click here for the diary and photos.
19. Day 14 – Grand Teton National Park, along the Snake River to the trains of the Union Pacific – 22 May 2006
Today we walked in Grand Teton National Park, met bigfoot in Jackson Hole, saw a Wyoming cowboy, and stayed overnight near the railway so Dick could watch the trains. Click here for the diary and photos.
20. Day 15 – A day of following trains from Green River to Cheyenne, Wyoming – 23 May 2006
Along the way we saw fireworks for sale, visited the Fort Steele State Historic Site and Ames Monument, and squeezed through a narrow round pipe tunnel at possibly the world’s best place to see trains. Click here to read the diary and see the photos.
21. Day 16 – Cheyenne to Denver – the last day of the first stage of our around the world trip – 24 May 2006
The last day of the first stage of the trip! We visited the Railway Museum in Cheyenne, drove into Colorado and visited the famous and very noisy Moffat railway tunnel. We did some walking at altitude, and spent the last night in luxury at a hotel. The vehicle will be serviced at the Earthroamer factory and stored there until the next stage of the trip in a few months. Click here for the diary and photos.
STAGE 2 – USA – DENVER TO NEW YORK
22. Day 17 – Heading in the wrong direction – into the Rocky Mountains – Friday 1 September 2006
It is now September and we have resumed the trip around the world. Today we drove in high altitudes to Georgetown to see the famous Georgetown Loop railway, past Vail to Leadville, and camped beside the Arkansas River. Click here for the diary and photos.
23. Day 18 – Further west to the wealthy mining town of Silverton – 2 September 2006
We visited the Morrow Point Dam, saw the Ouray Hot Springs, drove over the Red Mountain Pass and stayed at Silverton. Click here for the diary and photos.
24. Day 19 – Exploring the old gold mining area of Southern Colorado – 3 September 2006
Today we dropped in for the Old Hundred Gold Mine tour, looked at the ruins at Animas Forks, visited the Mayflower Mill, drove back along the Million Dollar Highway through Ouray, saw the airport at Telluride and stayed near the Pandora Mill. Click here for the diary and photos.
25. Day 20 – Further west to the Four Corner Country – 4 September 2006
Today we heard that Steve Irwin died. We rode the gondola at Mountain Village, saw the Ames Power Station, the world’s first to produce and transmit alternating current (AC). We then walked along the challenging Ophir Pass, and as we drove the scenery changed from looking like Switzerland to Coober Pedy. We looked at the junction of four states at the Four Corners, saw Indian communities, and stayed in the Blue Mountains RV Park. An interesting day. Click here for the diary and photos.
26. Day 21 – Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley – 5 September 2006
We explored the magnificent Valley of the Gods and spectacular Monument Valley. Click here for the diary and photos with beautiful scenery.
27. Day 22 – The big explosion on Route 66 – 6 September 2006
We crossed the mighty Rio Grande River, drove along the 12 lane highway and then onto the famous Route 66. A lightning strike metres from the campsite took out the Earthroamer’s inverter! Click here for the diary and photos.
28. Day 23 – Across the Texas panhandle into Oklahoma – 7 September 2006
After a hearty breakfast at the “Kix on Route 66” diner, we drove across the Texas panhandle, visited the barbed wire museum and saw the red soil and farms of Oklahoma. We camped at our first KOA campground. Click here for the diary and photos.
29. Day 24 – To Graceland, Memphis Tennessee – 8 September 2006
Sadly we heard about the death of Peter Brock today. We started early and drove past Little Rock, Arkansas, saw many trucks on the road, and visited Graceland, in Memphis, Tennessee, the home of Elvis Presley. We stayed near the banks of the Mississippi River, and Eric from Earthroamer replaced our damaged inverter. Click here for the diary and photos.
30. Day 25 – Country music and gridiron in Nashville, Tennessee – 9 September 2006
We looked at the railway bridges crossing the Mississippi river, called in to see Ian and Libby Cook, explored Nashville and Dick phoned Macca from the Country Music Hall of Fame. We saw a game of gridiron football and visited Opry Land. Click here for the diary and photos.
31. Day 26 – Day in Nashville, Tennessee – 10 September 2006
Today we cruised on the General Jackson paddle wheeler with performer Tim Watson, and stayed in the Nashville KOA Campground. Click here for the diary and photos.
32. Day 27 – Smoky Mountains were very smoky – 11 September 2006
It was the 5th anniversary of the World Trade Centre terrorist attacks on the World Trade Centre, so flags were at half-mast everywhere. We passed Knoxville and saw the amusement parks at Pigeon Forge, then through rain to the Smoky Mountains. We walked part of the Appalachian Trail, and the Kephart Prong Trail on the Oconaluftee River. We drove to Cherokee with its sad history, and camped at the enormous KOA Campgrounds. Click here for the diary and photos.
33. Day 28 – Smoky Mountains and the Blue Ridge Parkway – 12 September 2006
We drove along the Blue Ridge Parkway and into thick fog. We crossed the border into Virginia and were passed by enormous trucks on the highway. We dropped into the Mountain Empire Airport, and had steak delivered to our door at the KOA Campground in Wytheville. Click here for the diary and photos.
34. Day 29 – Along the Blue Ridge Parkway and finding the route Dick flew in 1982 – 13 September 2006
We drove in rain to find the route Dick flew in the around the world helicopter flight in 1982 – the weather was almost identical to the poor weather Dick encountered 24 years ago. On the way we stopped at the Natural Bridge and saw the recreated Monocan Indian Village, and drove past immaculate farms with white post and rail fences. We stayed in the Wal-Mart car park at Fredericksburg. Click here for the diary and photos.
35. Day 30 – Searching for Dick’s landing place near the Potomac River – 14 September 2006
The Earthroamer had leaked in the rain overnight. We drove in wet weather across the Potomac River into Maryland and tried to find the location where Dick had landed during his around the world helicopter flight in 1982 – also in bad weather. We then drove into Virginia and and stayed at the Westfields Marriot. We had dinner with Jeff Griffith from the FAA, who had helped Dick with aviation reforms. Click here for the diary and photos.
36. Day 31 – An enjoyable but illegal drive through Washington DC – 15 September 2006
We spent a couple of hours in the incredible Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum – seeing the Enola Gay, Wiley Post’s Winnie Mae, the Concorde and Space Shuttle. We had lunch with Dan Mori to discuss trying to get a fair trial for David Hicks, and spent an enjoyable afternoon driving around Washington DC, taking photos of landmarks such as the Washington Monument, the Capitol, National Art Gallery and Archives – until a policeman said RVs are illegal in central Washington! We spent the night at the KOA Campground at Millersville. Click here for the diary and photos.
37. Day 32 – We travelled on the train into Washington DC – 16 September 2006
Today we travelled by train to Washington DC and explored the Washington Monument, World War II Memorial, and returned to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum. We saw Dick’s name mentioned for his solo flight, looked at the Ross Perot Jnr display, saw Steve Fossett’s balloon gondola, and John Glenn’s space capsule. We caught the train back to the Earthroamer and drove through Baltimore, into Delaware and had dinner with John and Carlie Levinson of the Explorers’ Club. Click here for the diary and photos.
38. Day 33 – We made it to New York – 17 September 2006
The end of Stage 2 of the Earthroamer trip around the world. We drove into New York, along the famous Broadway and had the Earthroamer serviced before taking it to the P&O Wharf on the Hudson River. The vehicle will now be shipped across the Atlantic Ocean to Southampton to start Stage 3 of the trip. We then spent a couple of extra days looking around New York before returning home. Click here for the diary and photos.
STAGE 3 – FROM LANDS END IN CORNWALL, ENGLAND, TO JOHN O’GROATS IN SCOTLAND
39. Day 34 – Now in the United Kingdom – From Salisbury to Bodmin – Tuesday 14 November 2006
We are back in the Earthroamer again after an absence of 8 weeks. The vehicle has been shipped across the Atlantic. This is an extra part of the world trip, driving from Lands End to John O’Groats. We caught a train from London to the storage shed near Salisbury and drove through the English countryside to Bodmin. Click here for the diary and photographs.
40. Day 35 – Down to Lizard Point and Land’s End, the southern tip of England – 15 November 2006
We drove today in wind and rain through the beautiful country of Cornwall down to the southern tip of England. We walked at Lizard Point, saw the lifeboat station and visited the wireless station buildings used by Marconi in 1901. We visited Land’s End in heavy rain and wind, and stayed in a car park near Exeter. Click here for the diary and photos.
41. Day 36 – From Cornwall to Bristol and on to Telford – 16 November 2006
Today we drove from Cornwall and through Somerset to Bristol, where we visited Don Cameron of Cameron Balloons. We looked around the Avon River and boarded the historic SS Great Britain. We drove to Telford and stayed in a truck car park. Click here for the diary and photos.
42. Day 37 – Ironbridge Gorge and into Wales to Betwys-y-Coed – 17 November 2006
We drove down to Ironbridge Gorge, the home and birthplace of the Industrial revolution, with its wonderful heritage sites including the bridge, kilns and canal boat lifting rails. We then drove into Wales to Llangollen, the home of the Eisteddfod, and walked over the incredible Pontcysllte Aqueduct allowing canal boats to cross above the river. We then travelled to Betws-y-Coed and stayed near the railway line. Click here for the diary and photos.
43. Day 38 – Mount Snowdon to Liverpool – 18 November 2006
The day started with a drive past Dolwyddelan Castle to the slate mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog to see the famous narrow gauge railway before heading west to the, seeing quaint towns and farms along the way. We saw Caernarfon Castle, then Mount Snowdon which Dick climbed in 1966. We then headed back to England to meet Danny Fyne, the founder of the Professional Pilots Rumour Network. Dick then drove in darkness to the Anderton Boat Lift and parked near the entrance. Click here for the diary and photos.
44. Day 39 – Anderton Boat Lift near Manchester to Lake Windermere – 19 November 2006
We were fascinated by the engineering of Anderton Boat Lift to move boats between high and low canals and then drove towards Manchester to see friends Rachel and Lesley. We travelled to the tourist town of Windermere and stayed in the beautiful Miller House. Click here for the diary and photos.
45. Day 40 – Crossed into Scotland near Gretna Green and headed towards Loch Lomond – 20 November 2006
We drove around the shores of Lake Windermere and visited Gretna Green just inside the Scottish border. In the old days people would cross the border to marry quickly here. We drove past Lockerbie, the village known for the PAN AM terrorist attack, through Glasgow and stayed at the Lomond Woods Holiday Park, which had notices posted with lots of rules! Click here for the diary and photos.
46. Day 41 – Loch Lomond to Fort William and on to Evanton – 21 November 2006
Today we walked along the shore of Loch Lomond, then drove around the Loch and past snow covered hills to Fort William, where we stopped for lunch. We walked along part of the Caledonian Canal at Fort Augustus and stayed overnight in a petrol station car park. Click here for the diary and photos.
47. Day 42 – To John O’Groats and Dunnet Head, the northern tip of Scotland – 22 November 2006
We drove along the coast past beautiful stone cottages and stopped to see Keiss Castle, which we had flown over during the Sikorsky helicopter flight around the world. We visited the Groats Inn at John O’Groats, the start/finish point for the “End to Enders”, then drove to the true northern tip of Scotland at Dunnet Head. We opted for some luxury for the night and stayed at Birchcrew House west of Inverness. Click here for the diary and photos.
48. Day 43 – Inverness to Orchil Castle near Perth in Scotland – 23 November 2006
Today we saw snow covered mountains on the way to Perth, before heading to Orchil Castle for the night. We have stored the Earthroamer in Boyd’s shed, where it will stay until May 2007 to start Stage 4 of the trip. In the meantime, we took the trail to London, stayed with Tony and Elaine Salmon and flew back home. Click here for the diary and photos.
STAGE 4 – FROM ORCHIL CASTLE IN SCOTLAND TO MOSCOW, RUSSIA
49. Day 44 – On the road again from Scotland to Newcastle & onto the North Sea – Friday 18 May 2007
It’s nearly 6 months since we left the Earthroamer in Scotland, but we are now back on the road after a night at Orchil Castle. We crossed the border into England and visited the ruins of the Priory at Tynemouth which we had photographed from the air for the Above the World book. We then drove the vehicle onto the Princess Of Norway ship for our crossing of the North Sea. Click here for the diary and photos.
50. Day 45 – To Stavanger, Norway, and through 30 tunnels – 19 May 2007
We disembarked the boat in Stavanger, Norway and looked around the town. Today we drove through 30 tunnels, as well as travelling on the vehicle ferry to Skudejjorden. We saw the Edlind power station, stopped at Langfoss Falls and stayed in a beautiful camping area beside a small lake. Click here for the diary and photos.
51. Day 46 – A wonderful gathering of friends near Oslo – 20 May 2007
Taking in the beautiful scenery and passing traditional houses with earth and grass on the roof, we stopped in at the Vermork Power Station. The story of the freedom fighters sabotaging the facility is in the film Heroes of Telemark. We met with our friends Frithjof (Norway’s Dick Smith) and Ola, with their families, and stayed at Eggemoen airport. Click here for the diary and photos.
52. Day 47 – From Oslo into Sweden – 21 May 2007
We drove past green farms, visited the Fram museum and a canal museum, then crossed the border into Sweden. We spent the night in the car park of a service station about 60 km from Stockholm. Click here for the diary and photos.
53. Day 48 – Exploring Stockholm – 22 May 2007
Today we explored Stockholm, including the museum for the historic Vasa boat. Our friend Christer Salen took us for a drive around and then to lunch with his wife Yvonne and their friends. We then drove the Earthroamer on to the enormous ferry, Silja Serenade, to Helsinki in Finland. The ferry was like a cruise ship with restaurants, bars, duty free shops, saunas, and the Moscow Circus entertained us from the high wire! Click here for the diary and photos.
54. Day 49 – To Helsinki and across to Estonia – 23 May 2007
We disembarked the ferry at Helsinki, Finland, and visited the markets, then enjoyed a cruise around the harbour. We had tried to stay at the Grand Mariner Hotel but it was booked out, however Dick found we could board a jet boat to Estonia at 7 pm and stay the night there! We stayed at the Viru Inn in the Capital of Tallinn. The room had a modern bathroom and LCD TV, it didn’t seem like the old Soviet Union. Click here for the diary and photos.
55. Day 50 – Estonia, Helsinki and through the border into Russia – 24 May 2007
We spent some time exploring the capital of Estonia, then caught the boat back to Helsinki to pick up the Earthroamer and start driving to Russia. Crossing the border out of Finland was easy, and at the Russian side we were helped by a Russian lady who spoke good English. We left the border at 9 pm and parked at a service station where there were other campervans parked, then cooked dinner using the food we had brought from Scotland. Click here for the diary and photos.
56. Day 51 – Russian roads into St Petersburg – 25 May 2007
Departing the service station car park near the Russian border, we drove into St Petersburg using maps with the Cyrillic alphabet, marvelling at the modernisation of Russia. We checked into the Corinthia Nevskij Palace Hotel which had street parking for the Earthroamer, watched over by security guards. We explored the town, foiled pickpockets, ate McDonald’s burgers and used a water taxi to get back to the hotel. Click here for the diary and photos.
57. Day 52 (Part 1) – Enjoying St Petersburg – 26 May 2007
We spent the day in St Petersburg, including a visit to The Hermitage with its beautiful building and artworks by masters such as Cezanne, Monet, Matisse, Renoir, Van Gogh, Picasso, Rembrant, Da Vinci and Michelangelo. We then did a one hour boat cruise. The locals were celebrating St Petersburg Day and we joined the crowds to watch the parade. We ate at a Japanese restaurant and saw the Chinese Circus. Click here for the diary and photographs.
58. Day 52 (Part 2) – Heading towards Moscow – 27 May 2007
Ivan the hotel doorman showed us around St Petersburg. We visited the railway station, got fined for taking a photo, and went to the very modern shopping centre. We then drove to a general aviation airport to visit a flying club, where Dmitry, the “mad Russian” we met at John O’Groats, keeps his Yak. We joined the highway to Moscow, and when we saw a sign in English saying “Motel Cafe”, we drove down the driveway and spent the night parked outside the B&B, where Dick caught a local frog! Click here for the diary and photos.
59. Day 53 (Part 1) – We made it to Moscow – 28 May 2007
We drove past colourful wooden houses and farmland, then crossed the Volga River and through the town of Klin, where the Nutcracker Suite was written. We met Dmitry about 20 km from Moscow and he directed us through heavy traffic to his house on the southern side of Moscow. We met his family, talked about the history of the Tsars, and stayed at Dmitry’s house in the countryside surrounded by rolling fields. Click here for the diary and photos.
60. Day 53 (Part 2) – Moscow – 29 May 2007
We spent a couple of nights in Moscow, looking around the city. We visited the Kremlin, walked in Red Square, did a boat cruise on the Moscow River, and caught the metro underground. Dmitry took us on a drive to his home town, we organised visas for Khazakstan, and we saw the Bolshoi Ballet. This is the end of Stage 4 of the trip. We left the Earthroamer with Dmitry and flew home to Australia. Click here for the diary and photos.
STAGE 5 – FROM MOSCOW TO ALMATY IN KAZAKHSTAN
61. The day before we start from Moscow – Wednesday 4 July 2007
Today we arrived back in Moscow to start Stage 5 of the trip. We shopped for groceries to take with us, and prepared the Earthroamer for the trip, then spent the night in the Earthroamer parked in Dmitry’s yard. Click here for the short diary and a few photos.
62. Day 54 – Heading east towards Kazakhstan – 5 July 2007
Dmitry led us out of town in his sports car. The roads were better. We were pulled over for speeding but the policeman let us off when we couldn’t speak Russian. We bought fresh fruit and vegetables, and parked near a tributary for the Volga River. Click here for the diary and photos.
63. Day 55 – Bumpy roads and friendly Russians – 6 July 2007
Last night we were visited by some friendly teenagers who took us to the local lookout. This morning we were on the road passing green fields and skirting around the towns. We parked for the night in a village, where the locals invited us for a sauna and gave us Russian cola. Click here for the diary and photos.
64. Day 56 – Towards the Ural Mountains – 7 July 2007
We crossed the Kama River and bought fuel for the first time since Moscow, driving through the green farmland dotted with oil wells. We met some Dutch travellers in campervans, and had lunch at the side of the road. We were driving up the Ural Mountain range when we encountered a traffic jam, so we turned around and spent the night at a truck stop with a small restaurant. We woke up at 3 am so Dick could talk to Macca on Australia All Over on ABC radio. Click here for the diary and photos.
65. Day 57 – Our third continent – we are now in Asia – 8 July 2007
Shortly after our departure, the police pulled us over to inspect our papers and ask where we were going. We then crossed the Ural Mountains and are now in our third continent – Asia. We drove past wheat fields and through the town of Chelyabinsk, visiting a huge Westfield-like shopping centre. We drove on the flat, straight road and stopped at a truck stop in the village of MNKNHO for the night. Click here for the diary and photos.
66. Day 58 – Kazakhstan – a new country for both of us – 9 July 2007
Today was the first day we were not pulled over by the police! We drove past ploughed fields and saw small cafes beside the road with smoking barbecues beside, then reached the Russian checkpoint and the border to Kazakhstan. An English speaking customs officer helped us with the forms, and in two and a half hours had completed border formalities and were in Kazakhstan. We stopped at the outskirts of Petropavlovsk and stayed at a service station/restaurant/truck repair yard. Click here for the diary and photos.
67. Day 59 – An oasis in Kazakhstan – 10 July 2007
Last night we had a knock on the door and were interviewed by a regional newspaper. Today we drove past broadacre farms, and through a region described as Kazakhstan’s Switzerland. We stopped at a hotel near a lake, where many locals were enjoying the sunshine on their holidays. We swam in the lake and walked into town for a chicken shashlyk dinner. Click here for the diary and photos.
68. Day 60 – To the capital of Kazakhstan, Astana – 11 July 2007
We stayed overnight in the hotel at Lake Burabay, then departed for the capital, Astana. We stopped at the village of Kogam for lunch beside a Soviet bus shelter with hammer and sickle. We met the local children, and picked up a hitchhiker who guided us to the Okan Intercontinental Hotel in Astana, where we will stay for two nights. Click here for the diary and photos.
69. Our last day in Astana – 12 July 2007
A day in Astana today, which is a really modern city with incredible architect designed buildings and monuments, and even a model theme park with all of Kazakhstan in miniature. We had our Kazakhstan entry form stamped and did some shopping to re-stock the Earthroamer for the trip to Almaty. Click here for the diary and photos.
70. Day 61 – From green pastures to brown plains – 13 July 2007
Today we drove out of the city of Astana, through green fields and past the steel making region. We saw riders on horses mustering cattle and a young man in traditional dress with his camel. We picked up a hitchhiker with his young daughter, and stayed parked outside a Motel, where the locals gave Pip a dried fish as a gift. Click here for the diary and photos.
71. Day 62 – To Almaty – the last day of Stage 5 – 14 July 2007
It was a warm day and it got hotter as we headed towards Almaty. We drove alonside the Astana – Almaty rail line and paused at the lake front at Kehti, where we saw horseman watering their herds of horses and sheep. We met a young family, a motorcyclist with a sidecar, and decided not to buy the dried fish for sale on the side of the road. We picked up a hitchiker who helped us to navigate to Almaty, where we met Rustem from the Australian Consulate. This is the end of Stage 5 of the trip, but we will spend the next few days in Almaty sightseeing and organising a service of the Earthroamer. Click here for the diary and photos.
72. Sightseeing around Almaty – 14 July 2007
Click here for photos from sightseeing around Almaty.
73. The Battery Saga – 15 July 2007
Here is Dick’s story about the huge battery bank in the Earthroamer and the problems in ordering the batteries and shipping them to Moscow. Today in Almaty, Dick and Alex replaced the old units with Kazakh batteries. Click here for the story and the photos.
STAGE 6 – FROM ALMATY, KAZAKHSTAN, TO MONGOLIA – WITH BREAKDOWNS!
74. Start of Stage 6 – Problems with the Earthroamer – Wednesday 29 August 2007
We headed off on the start of Stage 6, but when we stopped to take a photo, the Earthroamer wouldn’t start. Alexey is trying to get a tow, and Dick and Pip are trying to get assistance from Ford. Meanwhile, the Earthroamer is broken down. Click here for the diary and photos.
75. The Ongoing Story – 30 August 2007
The Earthroamer is still broken down in Kazakhstan. We were towed another 20 km and have stopped at a small truck stop, and have called Ford for roadside assistance! Click here for the diary and a photo.
76. A Flat Bed Truck Arrives – 30 August 2007
Click here to read about the filed attempt to load the broken down Earthroamer onto a flat bed truck.
77. Still Going Nowhere – 31 August 2007
The Earthroamer is still broken down in Kazakhstan. We rolled it into the shade and waited for the low loader, but when it arrived at 10 pm, the vehicle was not suitable to take the Earthroamer. Click here for the diary and photo.
78. Hope Springs – 1 September 2007
Dick found a low loader stopped at the truck stop and we finally managed to load the Earthroamer to be taken back to Almaty. Pip and Alexey hitchhiked to Almaty and met the low loader there. It was a challenge to unload the Earthroamer but now it is back at the Dan Ko dairy, Alexey caught a taxi home, and we checked into the Ambassador Hotel in Almaty. Click here for the diary and photos.
79. Where were we? – 1 September 2007
Click here for a map and explanation to show where we were broken down in Kazakhstan.
80. Five hours as a truckie in Kazakhstan – by Dick Smith – 1 September 2007
Dick travelled with the truck driver while the Earthroamer was driven from the breakdown site to Almaty. Click here for his diary of the trip, with a photo.
81. The Earthroamer under repair – 2 September 2007
Dick met the mechanic from the Ford dealers in Almaty who are now trying to work out why the oil pump is not creating enough pressure for the vehicle to start. Click here for the diary and photos.
82. A day in the mountains – 3 September 2007
We arranged the legal documents to allow Alexey to drive the Earthroamer once it has been repaired – imagine that! Then we called in to see the vehicle which is still being repaired. Alexey took us up to the mountains where we rode the chair lifts up to an altitude of over 10,000 feet. Click here for the diary and photos.
83. Stop Press – Earthroamer repair update – 4 September 2007
I’ve just spoken to Chris Noel – the Ford man in Dubai. He tells me that Zhenya is going well with the inspection of the engine. They are hoping to know within a few hours whether it can be fixed in Almaty or whether some parts will be needed. Hopefully we will be able to get going in a few days. We will keep everyone posted.
84. Have we been let down by DHL? – 9 September 2007
DHL has still not delivered the parts for the Earthroamer, so we flew to London to visit Tony and Elaine Salmon, did a day of sightseeing in Rome, and are now with friends Annie and Pete Pigott in Switzerland. Click here for the diary and photo.
85. One week and still waiting – 11 September 2007
One week after the parts were dispatched from Jeddah, we are still waiting due to a delay in clearing customs. Click here for the short diary entry.
86. They have the parts – at last – 13 September 2007
The parts have arrived in Almaty! Now we have to wait for the electrician to finish another job before starting on the Earthroamer. In the meantime, we are in Switzerland and did some climbing in magnificent scenery. Click here for the short diary entry.
87. Waiting in Sydney – 19 September 2007
We are now back in Sydney waiting for news of the vehicle. We understand that the Ford dealer in Almaty is still working on the repairs. We ring every few hours (!) but haven’t got an answer. We are desperately hoping that the vehicle will be repaired in the next few days so we can head back on the journey.
88. 28 days since the breakdown – 26 September 2007
We had planned to depart Sydney for Almaty today, but the Earthroamer has still not been fixed as a special tool is required. Click here for the short diary entry.
89. 30 days since the breakdown – 28 September 2007
The special tool is now being shipped to Almaty by Ford and Earthroamer, plus a revised bracket to prevent the problem from happening again. Click here for the short diary entry.
90. 36 days since the breakdown – 4 October 2007
The parts sent by Earthroamer have arrived at the Ford dealer in Almaty. The weather has turned bad and the Earthroamer is only half under cover, so there are difficulties in doing the work. We hope that the vehicle will be finished within six days and we can continue the journey. Click here for the short diary entry.
91. 44 days since the Earthroamer broke down – 12 October 2007
We have just heard the earliest the Earthroamer could be ready is the evening of Sunday 14 October. We will get the first flight we can to Almaty and hope to continue next week before the snowstorms close the road. Click here for the short diary entry.
92. The Engine is going – 46 days since the breakdown – 14 October 2007
Sunday night Sydney time 9.55pm which is 5.55pm in Almaty. Alexey sent me a message to say the engine was going. I immediately rang Alexey and in the background of the phone call I could hear the engine. What a wonderful noise! Pip and I are so delighted. Our plan is to leave on Tuesday night and be in Almaty on Wednesday afternoon. Alexey has kindly agreed to come with us to the border in Mongolia, and his boss has allowed it. We are really looking forward to continuing the trip.
93. Disaster in Kazakhstan – 49 days since the breakdown – 18 October 2007
We arrived in Almaty but when we got to the Ford dealer, the Earthroamer had the transmission lying in the dirt, after an oil leak was found. We were told that the vehicle will be ready by lunch time tomorrow, so we checked into the Hyatt Hotel. Click here for the short diary entry.
94. Day 63 – We are on our way again – Almaty north, hopefully to Mongolia and Siberia – Friday 19 October 2007
The Earthroamer was finally ready just after 2 pm, and we headed off with Alexey to the north. We considered stopping at the truck stop where we broke down but we continued on to the outskirts of Taldyquorghan. Click here for the diary and photos.
95. Day 64 – From Taldyquorghan to Zhangistobe – 20 October 2007
Today we drove past military barracks and through arid sage bush country and past salt lakes. We saw mobs of horses, cattle, goats and sheep, drove through villages and bought apples at a roadside stall. We were checked by Police, and stopped in the village of Zahngiostobe. The Earthroamer is leaking oil. Click here for the diary and photos.
96. Day 65 – North to Russia – after being stopped by a TV crew! – 21 October 2007
We started early and headed for the Russian border. On the way we were stopped by a TV crew and Dick did an interview. We crossed the border into Russia, and removed the battery box on the Eathroamer as the screws had come loose. We stopped at Aliisk, where Alexey stayed in a hotel with a nightclub, restaurant and supermarket, and Dick and Pip parked in the car park. Click here for the diary and photos.
97. Day 66 – At last we turn east towards Mongolia – but more mechanical problems plague us – 22 October 2007
Today we bought new screws to re-mount the battery cover, and drove through Barnaul and Biysk, but on the way the instrument panel in the campervan fell down, and we also heard a strange noise from the back of the vehicle, which Dick thought might have been where the campervan was mounted on the chassis. At Gorno-Altaisk we found a mechanic. It was difficult to access that mounting bolt but eventually the vehicle was repaired and we stayed in town, finding a hotel for Alexey. Click here for the diary and photos.
98. Day 67 – Through a snowstorm towards the Mongolian border – 23 October 2007
The rain fell as we headed into the Altai Mountains of Siberia, but as we climbed towards the Seminsky Pass, the rain turned to snow and the visibility reduced. The weather had cleared when we stopped at the Aktash Post Office to register our visa to assist with crossing the border. The paperwork took an hour and a half, and Alexey was a great help. We stopped for the night at Kosh-Agash, where Alexey had to share his room with a truck driver. Alexey is going to get a taxi to the border to help us, then he will return home to Almaty. Click here for the diary and photos.
99. Day 68 – Through the border at lightning speed and now in Mongolia – 24 October 2007
Last night we had to move the Earthroamer when a truck started at about 10.30 pm and the diesel fumes were coming into our vehicle. It was very cold and the truck driver was trying to stay warm. Meanwhile, our diesel heater stopped working – perhaps because of the fumes. In the morning we drove to the Russian border in cold sunshine, left Alexey in Tashanta, and crossed into Mongolia in 35 minutes! We met our guides and the road completely disappeared. We drove past yaks, horses and sheep, and stopped in the town of Olgii where we had dinner with the family of our guides. The diesel heater started to work again! Click here for the diary and photos.
100. Day 69 – Rough roads to Khovd City, Mongolia – 25 October 2007
The diesel heater again stopped working and it was very cold. We drove over land with no tracks, or rough gravel roads. We saw Lake Tolbo before heading into a snow blizzard and climbing to over 8,000 feet. On the way we found a couple with a broken down motorbike, shepherds with their flocks and Mongolian horsemen. We enjoyed lamb dumplings and sweet Mongolian tea at a local cafe, where Pip noticed a cabinet in the Earthroamer was coming loose. We borrowed a flexible pole (used for a ger or Mongolian house) to prop up the cabinet. We parked outside a small hotel in the town of Khovd, where there heater seems to be working again. Click here for the diary and photos.
101. Day 70 – Broken down again – but now in remote Mongolia 25 October 2007
We drove through Mongolian countryside with sheep, goats, camels, horsemen and Mongolian ger houses. On the way we met a lady and her two young children, leading three camels with their belongings – including a satellite dish! Then the Earthroamer suddenly lost power and started billowing black smoke – we worked out something has gone wrong with the turbo charger. Broken down again – but now in remote Mongolia. Click here for the diary and photos.
102. Being towed 122 km over a high pass in freezing conditions with slipping tyres and virtually no traction – 26 October 2007
It was a cold night and our guide Eldos had slept on the floor of the Earthroamer. Dick went for a walk and met a young lady in a ger (yurt) and later we met two Mongolian herders and invited them into the Earthroamer. Dick managed to drive the Eathroamer about 18 km before the turbocharger failed again, so we waited for the truck and attached a tow rope. We were towed 122 km over a snowy mountain pass at the speed of 23 kph, and the temperature got down to -32°C. It took us 5 hours, but we made it back to the town of Khovd. Click here for the diary and photos.
103. We have flown to Ulaan Baatar – 28 October 2007
On Saturday 27 October we used heaters to defrost the water system in the Earthroamer as the pipes had frozen, then Eldos took us to the markets in Khovd. On Sunday 28 October we flew to Ulaan Baatar where we will spend a few days before heading home. We will arrange to send a mechanic to the Earthroamer. Click here for the diary and photos.
104. Update from Ulaan Baatar – 29 October 2007
We met with businessman Graham Taylor in Ulaan Baatar and met Baggii, the service manager at the Ford dealer. They will send a mechanic and diagnostic equipment to Khovd to find out what is wrong with the Earthroamer. Dick also met with the man in charge of foreign affairs at the Civil Aviation Authority as they promote participation in aviation. We saw an excellent folk music show and are heading off to stay in a ger camp for the night. Click here for the diary and photos.
105. We stay in a Ger and see wild Mongolian horses – 30 October 2007
Today we headed out of town to the Khustain National Park, where we stayed in a Ger at the Hustai Nuruu-Takhi Wild Horses Resort. A guide took us through heavy snow and we saw a herd of the rare Takhi Mongolian wild horse (Przewalski’s horse). A cosy wood stove kept us warm in the Ger overnight. Click here for the diary and photos.
106. Back in Sydney – 7 November 2007
We are now back in Sydney awaiting news on the repair of our Earthroamer. We will most likely not be going back to Mongolia until the end of April or early May 2008 to continue the journey.
107. News about the Earthroamer repairs – 10 January 2008
We have just heard from Baagii in Mongolia that he sent a team of mechanics to Khovd to work on the Earthroamer. So far they have the turbocharger working at about 80% and they are trying to get it to work 100%! When the work is completed they will either drive the car back to Olgii to put it in a secure shed, or cover it up with tarpaulins in the hotel yard at Khovd.
108. Earthroamer update – 22 January 2008
The latest information from Ford in Korea is that the faulty turbo charger was replaced. Wagner (the mechanics working on the Earthroamer in Mongolia) have decided to replace the powertrain control module (PCM) based on their diagnosis since the PCM does not supply power to the system properly. In addition, Ford Korea have informed Wagner to inspect the fuel filter and air cooler etc. for contamination and to reprogram the PCM to adopt high altitude driving circumstance. Wagner has placed an order for the PCM last week and it will be delivered to them at the end of January.
109. The Earthroamer part is on the way – 12 February 2008
Ford Korea have advised that the required part (powertrain control module – PCM) is on the way to Wagner Ford in Mongolia and will be delivered this week. Wagner will then send a technician to Khovd next week, hoping that the car will be repaired next week.
110. Great news! – 28 February 2008
It appears that the awaited part has arrived from Ford in America and a technician is going to be sent to Khovd at the end of this week. Hopefully we will have some good news to say that the vehicle is working again 100%!
111. The Earthroamer is fixed! – 11 March 2008
The technician from Ford in Ulaan Baatar, Munkhjargal went to Khovd last week and fixed the F550. Amazingly, the technician and his helpers removed the automatic transmission without any jack or special tools and replaced the main crank shaft oil seal. They also changed the turbo charger and the PCM (powertrain control module). It appears the PCM has been reprogrammed and the machine is running really well. The technician conducted test driving of a couple of hours to make sure everything is running OK. We are delighted that the vehicle is going again. We plan to return to Ulaan Baatar on 27 April 2008 and then head on across the Gobi Desert to Ulaan Baatar up into Russia and to Vladivostok.
112. Earthroamer update – 25 April 2008
We are planning to leave tomorrow morning from Sydney to fly to Korea, then Ulaan Baatar, and then to Hovd, arriving on Sunday afternoon, 27 April. Hopefully we will start on Stage 7 on Monday 28 April. We will endeavour to update our diary every day with photographs using the Iridium phone, and we will be using the absolute latest technology for our position reporting. It is a small unit that has been designed, invented and made by a group of brilliant engineers in New Zealand. It is the size of a cigar packet and sits on our dashboard. It will transmit our position, altitude, heading and ground speed back to our website. This will take place every 30 minutes. If you would like further information on the Spider Tracks unit, look here: http://www.spidertracks.com/
STAGE 7 – FROM MONGOLIA TO JAPAN – THEN SHIPPING THE EARTHROAMER TO AUSTRALIA
113. Day 71 – On our way again – a candlelit dinner for two – Sunday 27 April 2008
We returned to Ulaan Baatar and prepared for the start of Stage 7. We had the Earthroamer washed and fitted the new Spider Tracks unit. The snow had gone and we headed off in warmer weather, driving on corrugated roads past camels and horsemen. We stopped at the town of Zereg, where locals looked at the Eathroamer, and Pip and I had a candlelit dinner in a wayside cafe. Click here for the diary and photos.
114. Day 72 – The day of worst roads – 28 April 2008
Today we drove over rough and corrugated roads in magnificent scenery and seeing the way of life in Mongolia. We saw mounted horsemen and a shepherd riding a camel and leading another. We drove through a sandstorm with poor visibility and had lunch in a roadside Ger. We drove up to the town of Altai with an elevation of 7,000 feet and stayed outside a hotel. Click here for the diary and photos.
115. Day 73 – Further across the Gobi to high altitude goldfields – 29 April 2008
We covered a record 405 km today, driving for 9 hours and 20 minutes. We drove across the Gobi Desert over sand and stones, seeing camels, yaks, sheep and cattle, at an altitude of 6,000 – 7,000 feet. Crossing the Baydrag River was a highlight of the day, as well as the goldfields with local fossickers. Click here for the diary and photos.
116. Day 74 – We visit the capital of the world and stroke the Turtle Rock – 30 April 2008
The rough roads are taking a toll on the vehicle, with dust coming in the mounting bracket for the extra spare tyre breaking away. Today we drove to Karakorum, the capital city of the Mongols. There is not much left of the original site but we found a carved stone turtle. We saw the monastery and stayed at a little ger camp. Click here for the diary and photos.
117. Day 75 – From the Old Capital to the Capital of Mongolia – 1 May 2008
Dick went for a walk to explore before we left Karakorum. We stopped to talk to a shepherd with his flocks of goats and sheep, and Dick met his horse. At the town of Lun we stopped at a festival, where Dick met the Deputy Prime Minister, who was impressed with the Earthroamer. We saw the end of a 25 km horse race for young boys at Lun, then were back on bumpy roads before finally reaching the Ford dealer at Ulaan Bataar. The Earthroamer will be there for 2 days for service, so we stayed in the Kempnski Palace Hotel. Click here for the diary and photos.
118. Lay days in Ulaan Bataar – 2 & 3 May 2008
We woke to snow! On these two lay days we prepared the Eathroamer for the 4,000 km leg to Vladivostok. Ford serviced the vehicle and strengthened the frame on the spare wheel. Dick replaced the batteries and fixed the diesel heater, TV bracket and hot water system. On Sunday we visited a local bazaar to buy rope and tools. We stocked the vehicle with food ready for departure tomorrow, and had dinner with Graham Taylor. Click here for the diary and photos.
119. Day 76 – We leave Ulaan Baatar but have to return – 4 May 2008
Departing early, we headed towards the Russian Border. We drove past farmland with cultivated green fields, but it wasn’t long before Dick thought there was a problem with the turbocharger. It stopped working after 162 km. We turned back to Ulaan Baatar, initially only at 35 kph but building to 90 kph. Driving back to Wagner Ford, Baagi and Mugi came in on a Sunday to fix the vehicle. We are now back in the Kempinski Palace Hotel in Ulaan Baatar, awaiting news on the Earthroamer. Click here for the diary and photos.
120. Day 77 – A speedy transit through the Mongolian/Russian border – 5 May 2008
The Earthroamer was fixed and Baaggii took us for a test drive to a high mountain! We departed at 1.15 pm and paid our 80 cent road tax to depart Ulaan Baatar, driving out through rolling hills to the Russian border. We started to see trees again on the way as the landscape changed. Eldos helped us to get through the Mongolian border, and Pip had all the information to cross the Russian border and we had no problems. We drove through Russian pine forests and stopped in a small town at 8.30 pm, showing our sign in Russian asking to park the vehicle securely and we parked outside one of the houses. Click here for the diary and photos.
121. Day 78 – Driving beside the Siberian Railway – 6 May 2008
We departed early and headed into the Russian Far East, through pretty derelict villages and past the remains of old collective farms. We stopped at the city of Ulan-Ude to buy maps. It is over 1,000 km from Ulaan Baatar to Vladivostok as it is from Sydney to Perth! The route follows the busy Trans-Siberian Railway. We saw Buryat horsemen tending their flocks, and stopped for lunch beside the Selenga River. Coming the other way were hundreds of Japanese cars. We stopped beside a lagoon near the railway so we can hear the trains. Click here for the diary and photos.
122. Day 79 – Good roads and bad roads, ice covered rivers and bushfires – 7 May 2008
The roads deteriorated from good to terrible, with horrendous corrugations slowing is to an average speed of 39 kph. It wasn’t long before the rear fibreglass cover enclosing the grey water tank shook loose, and Dick had to remove it and rope it to the roof. The rivers were still frozen, but we drove through an area of bushfires. The Japanese being delivered are covered in masking tape and cardboard to protect them on the rough roads. We now have 1,800 km ahead on dirt roads. We camped at a wayside stop 15 km north of the Trans-Siberian Railway. Click here for the diary and photos.
123. Day 80 – 403 kilometres along the road from hell – 8 May 2008
The road was mostly very rough dirt and the bitumen had undulations. At times we were driving at only 15 kph. Even so, when we stopped for lunch and to top up water from a pond, we found that the rear bumper bar had broken loose and was hanging down. Dick managed to tie it up and we tried stopping at local towns to have it welded back on, but without success. Locals have given directions to a workshop in another town. There was a dusting of snow! Click here for the diary and photos.
124. Day 81 – All welded up and some smoother gravel as well – 9 May 2008
Some snow had melted but it was still icy when we drove along the dirt roads and into the village of Semioeyornby. The locals directed us to the home of the local welder, and he re-attached the rear bumper of the Earthroamer. A local offered us a drink of Vodka when it was done! We reached the northernmost point at 4 pm – another milestone. A grader was now smoothing the road. We stopped at the town of Takhtamygda and had dinner at a cafe. Click here for the diary and photos.
125. Day 82 – South to warmer latitudes – 10 May 2008
The roads were both good and dreadful today, with roadwork putting down asphalt but at times leaving enormous holes. We saw very few houses or towns today, just trees, grasslands and the stream of Japanese cars. It is definitely getting warmer.We were detoured into the village of YEPHOBKA, rejoined the highway ans stopped at a truck stop and cafe. Click here for the diary and photos.
126. Day 83 – The end of the dirt – we hope? 11 May 2008
Dick spoke to Macca on Australia All Over this morning before we headed off. The roads were going from magnificent bitumen to nearly impassable. We met some adventurers today – a Russian cyclist, and an Englishman on a trip in his Landcruiser. We were stopped by the Police today to see our papers but they weren’t very interested. Amazingly, a truck driver stopped to show us he is transporting Australian Goulburn Valley tinned fruit! The countryside is greener now and we saw a river with sand. We parked about 10 metres from the Trans-Siberian Railway line so Dick could look at the trains. Click here for the diary and photos.
127. Day 84 – Overnight trains, Khabarovsk and a friendly truck driver – 12 May 2008
There were lots of trains overnight as we parked alongside the railway line – fantastic! On the way to Khabarovsk, a truck driver overtook us, then pulled over waving furiously. He wanted to take a picture of us and present us with a bottle of Vodka! We had been to Khabarovsk previously so just passed through this big city, but we did stop at an enormous shopping centre. We then dodged huge potholes as we followed the Ussuri River through magnificent scenery. Signs started to appear for China, in English. We stopped at a deluxe roadside cafe, which even had modern toilets with water from the taps. Click here for the diary and photos.
128. Day 85 – We made it to Vladivostok – 13 May 2008
Dick went for a morning walk and saw otters in the pond, then we drove over corrugated dirt then good bitumen roads. We were overtaken by a car with the driver stopping and waving frantically – it was Dan Tebbutt from the Australian Trade Commission, with Vladimir Gorkhov, Australia’s Consulate. They said the vodka were given yesterday was special and we should keep it. The traffic increased as we approached Vladivostok and billboards appeared. We made it to cosmopolitan Vladivostok, guided to the Hotel Hyundai by local lady Margaret. Click here for the diary and photos.
129. The nightmare of getting out of Russia – 14 May 2008
We thought we could drive the Eathroamer onto the ferry to Japan and do customs, but no, we’ve spent half the day trying to organise the paperwork. In the morning we had the Earthroamer thoroughly washed so it is clean for the Australian quarantine requirements. We also had the grey water cover refitted – Marina helped with translation. Click here for the diary and photos.
130. A day of bureaucratic nightmares – the importance of checking paperwork in Russia – 15 May 2008
Helping with the paperwork to ship the Earthroamer were Marina, and Alexander in the shipping agent’s office. The Assistant Director of Customs handed our paperwork to the customs officers but a typo on the Earthroamer VIN meant that Alexander had to prepare new documents. We paid for our passage to Japan and the shipping of the Earthroamer on 26 May. In the meantime, we will fly back to Sydney and return on 24 May to travel to Japan. We also marvelled at the incredible tyres on the Earthroamer. Click here for the diary and photos.
131. We found the source of the Japanese cars – 16 May 2008
Marina drove us to the huge Japanese car sale yards, with acres and acres of cars waiting to be sold. When got a lift to the lookout at the top of the funicular railway and caught the tram down the hill to return to our hotel. Marina has all the paperwork to export the Earthroamer, and we caught the train to Vladivostok and flew home via Seoul. We will return to Vladivostok on 23 May and will take the Earthroamer to the ferry to Japan on 26 May. Click here for the diary and photos.
132. We returned to Vladivostok – 24 May 2008
We flew back to Vladivostok and walked around the city. Car enthusiasts were displaying cars, including an F350. We walked along the foreshore and visited a submarine opened as a museum. We also met a group of young people dressed in sashes and ribbons – they had graduated high school. We spoke to one of the girls in English. Click here for the diary and photos.
133. We visit the Circus and Russky Island – 25 May 2008
Today we saw children participating in the book parade, and Marina had bought tickets for the circus. We saw acrobats, dogs, an amazing cat, and even yaks. We then caught a ferry to Russky Island, and saw the M/V Rus ship which will take us to Japan. We had dinner with Marina in her apartment and met her daughter Anna. Click here for the diary and photos.
134. We leave Continental Asia – 26 May 2008
We drove the Earthroamer to the wharf ready to load on the M/V Rus for the trip to Japan, but we had to wait for nine and a half hours before we could board! Pip packed up the ins and packets of food from the Earthroamer as it probably won’t be allowed into Australia, and gave it to Marina, who has been fantastic in helping us. The ship was “Old Russia” with 1960s decor, and the passengers were mostly Russian. We finally left at 11.30 pm and were given dinner. Click here for the diary and photos.
135. Day 86 – We cross Japan in a day – 28 May 2008
We had a smooth passage to Japan, but it took five hours to get through the bureaucracy of bringing a foreign, privately owned vehicle into the country. We then drove along the tollways through magnificent scenery, with Japanese houses with turned up corners on the roofs and surrounded either by a rice paddy or wheat field. There were thick forests, and golf driving ranges. Everything was very neat. We reached Nagoya city at 6 pm and stayed with Jimmy and his family. Jimmy is the business partner of Mark Bremner, the New Zealander who will be shipping the Earthroamer to Australia. Click here for the diary and photos.
136. Travelling on fantastic Japanese trains – 29 May 2008
Today we were interviewed by a Japanese Auto Camper Magazine (click here for the article), then we cleaned the Earthroamer ready for Australian Quarantine. We then travelled by bullet train at 260 kph to Kushimoto to try to find the fisherman’s wharf that Dick had been forced to land on during the solo around the world flight in 1983. Click here for the diary and photos.
137. We find the fishermen’s wharf – 30 May 2008
We drove to Kushito to find the fishermen’s wharf where Dick had landed helicopter VH-DIK in bad weather during the around the world flight. The weather was wet and windy as it was when Dick did the flight, but we did find the location! We took some photos at the site, comparing it to the photos from the Solo book. We were invited to meet the Mayor and Dick presented him with a Solo book. Click here for the diary and photos.
138. Update – The Earthroamer has been loaded onto a flat-pack for shipping to Perth – 17 June 2008
Click here for a photograph.
139. Update – The Earthroamer has arrived in Fremantle – 10 July 2008
The Earthroamer has arrived in Fremantle. Click here for a short diary entry outlining the plans for the next stage of the trip across Australia to the Sydney Opera House.
STAGE 8 – FROM PERTH TO ALICE SPRINGS
140. Day 87 – We leave Perth on Stage 8 – finally through Australian bureaucracy – 21 July 2008
We encountered Australian bureaucracy as we needed a letter of credit, a permit, a registration, a wheel arch extension and replacing the red indicators lights with amber. We also needed a passport, a residential address in Western Australia, and a driving course for a light rigid truck licence! With all that done, we picked up the vehicle and stocked it with food. We have parked at a truck stop at the Upper Swan River. It is great to be driving in Australia. Click here for the diary and photos.
141. Day 88 – Another day, another country! 22 July 2008
After Dick’s early morning walk, we headed north towards Geraldton with magnificent green scenery. We passed road trains and were on good roads. Dick noticed the batteries had not fully charged and burnt his finger on the battery terminal, so we had the problem fixed by an auto electrician. We saw beautiful birds, flowers, and drove to the beach to collect water from the Indian Ocean, to drive right across to the Pacific Ocean. Dick visited an old school friend Michael Marsh, and we then drove to the Hutt River Province and met the Royal Family. Prince Leonard prepared a visa for us. Another day, another country! We then camped in a free camping area at the Murchison River. Click here for the diary and photos.
142. Day 89 – Driving through beautiful wildflowers to Shark Bay – 23 July 2008
We drove north on the coastal highway seeing, beautiful wildflowers, stopped to give a donation to Vlastik Skavril for his run from Shark Bay to Byron Bay, visited the Hamelin Pool Telegraph Station and the boardwalk over the ancient Stromalolites. We visited Carnarvon Airport, where Dick had prepared for the balloon flight across Australia with John Wallington, and stopped just out of town at a service station. Click here for the diary and photos.
143. Day 90 – We head east onto the red dirt roads – 24 July 2008
Now navigating with three GPS units, we drove on the rich red earth of Aussie dirt roads to Gascoyne Junction, not seeing another vehicle for 4 hours at at time. We passed fat cattle and windmills. When we stopped for lunch, Dick noticed that the battery cover had slipped down again. With the help of some other travellers, we tied up the battery and stopped 100 km from Meekatharra. Click here for the diary and photos.
144. Day 91 – Meekatharra to the Gunbarrel Highway – 25 July 2008
We drove into Meekatharra and Dick worked with “Ripper” Bob Devene to reinforce the battery box. We then travelled to Wiluna to restock with groceries, and Dick bought an Aboriginal painting for Pip’s birthday present. Dick collected the mail for Glen Ayle Station after talking to Pam Ward, who said we should drop in to see Henry Ward at “Millrose” along the way. We drove on smooth red dirt roads and arrived at Millrose homestead at 5 pm, meeting cattleman Rob Dowling. Rex and Henry arrived back from the muster with a double decker truck load of cattle unloaded into the yards. After dinner at the homestead, we stayed in the Earthroamer. Click here for the diary and photos.
145. Day 92 – To Well 9 on the Canning Stock Route – 26 July 2008
Dick was up at 6 am helping to feed the sheep, and after breakfast we watched Norma, Rex and Christopher draft the cattle at Millrose. We drove the 190 km to Glen Ayle station with Henry Ward for lunch, then headed out to Well 9 on the Canning Stock Route. We saw fort ruins, big cattle and returned to Glen Ayle for a Australian country meal. Click here for the diary and photos.
146. Day 93 – South through Australia’s mining wealth to Leonora – 27 July 2008
We were up early to speak to Macca on ABC Radio’s Australia All Over, then fed the lambs, donkey and pet camel at Glen Ayle station. We then drove on the longer route on the Great Central Highway. On th way we saw the waterhole at Mingo Camp, the sculpture at Wiluna, and got back onto bitumen roads and phone coverage. We drove past wealthy mines, overtook road trains, and parked for the night outside the Leonora Motor Inn. Click here for the diary and photos.
147. Day 94 – We rediscovered the Poseidon Secret and travelled on the Great Central Road – 28 July 2008
At Leonora we looked around the town at the old buildings, then visited the old gold mining town of Gwailia. We saw a drilling rig, corrugated iron houses and the Son of Gwailia open cut gold mine and museum. Herbert Hoover, who later became the US President, was the mine manager in 1898 and we visited his old house – now a bed & breakfast. At the airport, Dick found a technician installing an ADS-B transmitter. We passed working mines, colourful soil and looked down on the Poseidon nickel mine – the reason for the huge stock market rise and fall 1969 to 1994. We drove from Laverton onto the Great Central Road, and camped in the bush looking at the stars. Click here for the diary and photos.
148. Day 95 – Further on the Central Road and pancakes at Giles – 29 July 2008
On the road today we met a road train driver, then we stopped at the Tjukayirla Roadhouse with its photo of the Len Beadell bulldozer that Dick has at Gundaroo. We saw motorcyclists with sidecars and Dick fed the pet emus. Outside there was a bitumen section of road used as an airstrip by the Royal Flying Doctor Service. At noon we stopped to talk to a grader driver, who said he used to be a drummer for Slim Dusty! At the Warburton Roadhouse we were surprised to see “no photos permitted” signs on the caged bowsers. We saw camels on the road and stopped at Giles meteorological station, where staff made us pancakes with ice cream. We parked beside the radar transmitter for the night. Click here for the diary and photos.
149. Day 96 – On the worst road in Australia to meet international movie personality Charley Boorman – 30 July 2008
From Giles weather station we drove back towards Leonora and onto the rough Gunbarrel Highway – we could only travel at 15-20 kph. We saw herds of camels, and stopped to see Len Beadell’s grader. We drove on rough roads across the border to the Northern Territory. Dick sat in Lasseter’s Cave, where Lasseter had sheltered for 25 days in January 1931. We saw long road trains, met travellers from around the world, marvelled at the Olgas, and drove to Ayers Rock (Uluru). Walking back to the Earthroamer, we found Charley Boorman reading the panel on the side of the vehicle. Charley, his wife Olivia and their kids joined us in the Earthroamer for a discussion on adventure, and we arranged to meet later at the Sails in the Desert Hotel, where we enjoyed a bit of luxury after camping for nine nights. Click here for the diary and photos.
150. Day 97 – Along Lasseter Highway to the Meteorite Craters – 31 July 2008
After a leisurely breakfast with Olly and Charley Boorman and their girls, we left at 12 pm and headed onto the Lasseter Highway, a good bitumen road. We passed red earth hills, saw Mt Conner and drove into a dust storm. Turning off on the bumpy Ernest Giles Road, we drove to the Henbury Meteorite Craters and stayed overnight in the car park. Click here for the diary and photos.
151. Day 98 – We made it to “Sink a Tinny Downs” in Alice Springs – Friday 1 August 2008
We drove back to the Stuart Highway on the ghastly Ernest Giles Road. We stopped at the Cannonball Memorial, in memory of four people killed in 1994 during the Cannoball Run. Crossing a sandy river bed, we enjoyed a milkshake at the Stuarts Well Roadhouse, and made it to “Sink a Tinny Downs” at Alice Springs, the home of Nerys Evans and Ted Egan. Dick refitted the fridge in the Earthroamer but the microwave mountings were damaged – so Dick put it back on the shelf and held it place with extra screws. Click here for the diary and photos.
152. Visiting Museums before departing Alice Springs – Saturday 2 August 2008
The Earthroamer will stay with Ted and Nerys at Alice Springs while we head back to Sydney. Today we looked at museums, including the National Road Transport Hall of Fame, the Ghan Train, and the Aviation Museum featuring the Kookaburra Memorial, which houses the aircraft we found in the desert in 1978. We plan to return to Alice Springs on 15 August to continue the trip to Sydney. Click here for the diary and photos.
STAGE 9 – FROM ALICE SPRINGS TO SYDNEY
153. Day 99 – Departing Alice Springs and skirting the Simpson Desert – Friday 15 August 2008
We flew back to Alice Springs early to pick up the Earthroamer and start the final stage of the trip. Leaving Alice Springs we saw Sturts Desert Peas and enormous road trains. We stopped at the Tropic of Capricorn monument and were on a single lane bitumen road for 100 km, then onto the gravel. We saw cattle and termite mounds as the road became more corrugated, and camped at Jervois station with the crew from Top Gear who were testing cars on a trip from Alice Springs to Cairns. Click here for the diary and photos.
154. Day 100 – Into Queensland towards the Min Min Light country – 16 August 2008
The road was very corrugated and covered in bull dust as we skirted the Simpson Desert, passing cattle stations as we drove through the red earth outback with deep blue sky. We stopped beside a dam where cattle had gathered, watching the galahs and brolgas. Crossing the border into Queensland, we drove across flat flood plains into Boulia, where we saw a show about the fabled Min Min lights – similar to UFO sightings. We then drove towards Bedourie and stopped at a campsite under Coolabah trees and Red River Gums. Click here for the diary and photos.
155. Day 101 – South to the Birdsville Pub – 17 August 2008
Dick spoke to Macca from Australia All Over on ABC Radio before we departed today through flat country, with the bitumen road turning to gravel, but we were able to maintain a good pace. We saw emus, cut through the red sand hills and saw cattle grazing on the side of the road. We refuelled at Bedourie and stopped at Cacory ruines before crossing onto Adria Downs, Nell and David Brook’s property. Wildflowers were on the dunes around Birdsville. We ate in the Birdsville Hotel and stayed with David & Nell in Birdsville. Click here for the diary and photos.
156. Day 102 – We cross the Cooper Creek to Quilpie – 18 August 2008
Leaving Birdsville, we crossed the Diamantina River and passed cattle and emus on the way to Betoota. The Pub closed after our friend, the owner Simon Remienko had died. We visited his grave. David Brook owns the pub now and we hope he can get it going. We also visited the memorial for David and Nell Brook’s son Deon. The Earthroamer’s compressor cylinder broke off so Dick taped up the fitting. We tried to stop for lunch at Windorah, but the cafe was closed for lunch! We stopped to look at a solar project and crossed the Cooper Creek. We saw our first sheep just before Quilpie, and stayed at a caravan park. Click here for the diary and photos.
157. Day 103 – Meeting the cattle drovers on the road to Roma – 19 August 2008
It was only 9 degrees Cesius and we found that the heater has broken again! We crossed the Bulloo River, which doesn’t flow into a lake or ocean, and stopped to talk to a railway maintenance crew. On the road we saw an enormous load of two houses being carried by trucks from Bundaberg to Jundah. At Charleville, Pip noticed a rear tyre was damaged so we had tyres replaced by a local family company, and looked at the old Queensland style buildings. Today we saw brolgas, beautiful flowers, and Dick even saw a train. But the highlight was being in the middle of a big cattle drive. We met the head drover who was moving 1,450 cattle to Moree. At Mitchell we saw bottle trees, and the countryside changed when we saw our first paddocks and crops. At Roma we checked into a motel and visited the Big Rig to watch a show on the oil and gas industry. Click here for the diary and photos from this interesting day!
158. Day 104 – We cross the Darling Downs for the coast – 20 August 2008
We departed Roma, seeing the cattle sale yards, and headed though the Queensland powerhouse of the Darling Downs. We drove on good roads and passed huge silos, magnificent grazing and irrigated crops, coal and gas power stations, and wide loads on the road with Police escorts. Dick stopped to wave at a coal train as we approached Dalby. The region had new buildings and farm machinery. At Toowoomba we had lunch with Dave and Ann Larkin and looked at their Sun Camper motorhome. Continuing east, we joined the multi-lane motorways and visited Paradise Motor Homes, and left at 6.15 pm to drive in the dark to Surfers Paradise on the coast to visit friends Jon and Jan Tait. Click here for the diary and photos.
159. Day 105 – We successfully cross Australia from Shark Bay to Byron Bay – 21 August 2008
After leaving John and Jan Tait’s apartment, we drove north to see the little icebreaker ship, the Silver Star, which was once “Sir Hubert Wilkins” which Don and Margie McIntyre used for trips to Antarctica. We drove through Surfers Paradise and crossed the border into NSW, stopping at the lighthouse at Byron Bay, Australia’s eastern most point. We then poured the water we had collected from the Indian Ocean into the Pacific Ocean. After lunch with John Wallington, Christie, and Howard Whelan, we passed alongside sugar cane fields on the way to Coffs Harbour, and stayed at our house at Bongil Beach. Click here for the diary and photos.
160. Day 106 – Nearly to the Sydney Opera House and the end of the journey – 22 August 2008
It was raining as we departing the Bongil Beach house at Repton. We drove south on the Pacific Highway through farmland, past Ross Glen where Dick built the Camden Haven Airstrip, through Taree and across the Hawkesbury River. Nearing home, we took a detour down to Bobbin Head through the Kur-ring-gai chase National Park, and drove through the front gates as it got dark. We have almost done it! Just the trip under the Sydney Harbour Bridge and onto the forecourt of the Sydney Opera House to go. Click here for the diary and photos.
161. Day 107 – We have arrived – 40,361 kms! Tuesday 26 August 2008
We made it! After travelling through 15 countries over the last two and a half years, we finally arrived at the Sydney Opera House! We left Terrey Hills and drove across the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge, then Dick drove under it as well because he had flown under the Bridge on his solo world helicopter flight in 1982. We drove onto the forecourt of the Sydney Opera House where we were welcomed by former NSW Premier, Neville Wran, as he had in 1982. There was a group of people to welcome us, media interviews and celebrations. Click here for the diary and photos.
RETURNING THE EARTHROAMER TO DENVER
162. What we will be doing with the Earthroamer – 10 September 2008
The Earthroamer is presently on the ocean between Sydney and California. We plan to depart Long Beach on Saturday 4 October and head to Denver to sell the vehicle back to the Earthroamer company. If we can’t get a reasonable price, we will probably drive it to Ushuaia in South America.
163. Returning our Earthroamer to Denver – still held up in customs – 4 October 2008
We shipped the Earthroamer to Los Angeles and we heard it had arrived at the end of September. We flew to LA on 4 October to find the vehicle was still held up in customs, so we hired a car and drove north. We drove to the winery area of Los Alamos, visited Pismo Beach and stayed at the Shelter Cove Lodge. Click here for the diary and photos.
164. We visit Peggy Fossett in Carmel – Sunday 5 October 2008
Today we drove along the rocky coast on Highway 1, seeing eucalyptus trees along the way. We stopped at Elephant Beach to see the elephant seals and visited Steve Fossett’s widow, Peggy. Steve had gone missing in a small plane in September 2007 and a hiker had recently found the wreck. Peggy took us to the National Park and we saw wild deer. Dinner was at a restaurant owned by Clint Eastwood, and we enjoyed the halloween decorations. Click here for the diary and photos.
165. Railway tunnels to Reno – Monday 6 October 2008
After breakfast with Peggy Fossett we drove through farms growing vegetables, stopping at Casa de Fruita which is a motel we stayed at with the girls over 20 years ago. We saw canals, orchards and visited Old Sacramento town and the Californian Railway Museum. Near Soda Springs, we found the entrance to an old railway tunnel and were able to drive right through. We dropped in to see Annie Kershaw but she wasn’t home, so we continued on to the Grand Sierra Resort in Reno. Click here for the diary and photos.
166. Back to Los Angeles to wait for the Earthroamer – Tuesday 7 October 2008
We flew back to Los Angeles, hired a car and drove to Long Beach. The Earthroamer still hadn’t cleared customs, so we toured the Queen Mary ship and had lunch on the promenade deck. We also visited the Californian Aquarium and bought a new GPS. The Earthroamer finally cleared customs in the afternoon and should be taken off the pallet tomorrow. Click here for the diary and photos.
167. One our way again at last in our Earthroamer – Wednesday 8 October 2008
While waiting for the Earthroamer, we bought a cheap electric heater as the one in the vehicle had stopped working. The Earthroamer was ready to be picked up at 2 pm and we were there as it was unloaded by forklift. We then noticed all the tyres had been let down, the vehicle was left unlocked, and someone had stolen our TV, DVD player, speakers in the camper, and a DVD screen on the back of a passenger seat. The keys had also been left in Sydney, but fortunately Dick had hidden a spare set. After re-inflating the tyres, we departed at 4.08 pm and headed towards Las Vegas, staying overnight in a Wal Mart car park at Victorville. Click here for the diary and photos.
168. From Peggy Sue to Ely – Thursday 9 October 2008
We made breakfast beside Peggy Sue’s 50s diner then travelled through the Mojave Desert – arid country with strange desert plants. Crossing the border into Nevada, we drove past casinos then headed back into the arid zone to Ely. Tonight we stayed at the local KOA campground. Click here for the diary and photos.
169. Dry desert to snow covered hills – Friday 10 October 2008
After briefly visiting the railway museum, we headed towards Salt Lake City. Passing large caravans and motorhomes, we crossed into Utah across the salt flats and a telecommunications tower shaped like a tree. At Echo Canyon we stopped to make lunch, then the weather deteriorated to fog, rain and sleet. The hills were covered in snow and it was a relief to find the KOA campground at Rock Springs. Click here for the diary and photos.
170. Snow, sunshine and fog to Fort Collins – Saturday 11 October 2008
It was snowy, windy and the roads were icy when we left Rock Springs, with very slow traffic. On Day 1 of the trip we stopped at Red Desert for a cup of tea at a motel. We stopped again but the building is now an adult store. The sun came out and we drove through farmland, wind farms, but it was rainy and foggy as we entered Colorado. We checked into the KOA Campgrounds and Dick did some work on the Earthroamer’s heater. Click here for the diary and photos.
171. The last day of travelling in our Earthroamer – Sunday 12 October 2008
We enjoyed our last breakfast in the Earthroamer and departed at 8.45 am, driving through Loveland as rain began to fall. We drove into Estes Park with magnificent views and autumn colours as the sun came out, and we visited Rocky Mountain National Park. We walked around Bear Lake, had lunch in Estes Park, and drove through fog back to Bloomfield, checking into the Renaissance Boulder Suites hotel, where we had stayed in March 2006 at the very beginning of our Earthroamer adventure. Click here for the diary and photos.
172. Sad farewell to our Earthroamer – and Dick’s Lowell Thomas Award – Monday 13 October 2008
We drove to the new Earthroamer facility and were welcomed by the owner, Bill Swails. That night the staff gave us a welcome back BBQ and cake. On Tuesday 14 October we gave the keys to Bill who will sell the Earthroamer, and shed a few tears. Friends John and Martha King flew us to the Cessna factory in Wichita, and then to New York for the Explorers Club Function, where Dick received the Lowell Thomas Award – along with Chuck Yeager and John & Martha King. We spent the weekend with Tom Warner and the Kings at a Beechcraft fly-in at Tulahoma, Tennessee, before flying back to San Diego, driving to Los Angeles, and flying back to Sydney.
For almost three years we have driven our Earthroamer around the world, becoming a great team and sharing fantastic memories. During the trip we covered 45,552 km.
Just before Christmas 2008 we were advised that the vehicle had been sold to a US military veteran. We are pleased it has gone to a good home.
Click here for the final Earthroamer trip diary entry and photos.